Visual Hotel Review: Bushmans Kloof – A Wilderness Retreat in South Africa
Rarely does somewhere surprise me in the way Bushmans Kloof did. Knowing little about the Cederberg Mountains, my research before arriving conjured up expectations of an isolated luxury lodge where I’d be relaxing to the sweet sounds of silence and gazing upon a rocky wilderness.
What greeted me was a botanical wonderland, visually diverse and vast, with a soundtrack of birdsong and a welcoming waddle of ducks outside my villa. It lived up to the expectations, and went beyond, about as far beyond as the visible galaxy of stars painted across the sky each evening.
Don’t even get me started on the fluffy zebra foal, two days fresh with floppy ears.
As the sun rose on my first day, weaver nests were illuminated in the swaying willows over the pond as a chorus of morning birds had me running to set my audio recorder. Leaving it to sit by the reeds beneath a tall tree, I grabbed my camera bag and wandered to the meeting point.
It was sunrise safari time.
The Location
Three hours’ drive north of Cape Town, Bushmans Kloof is a wilderness reserve cradled by South Africa’s rugged Cederberg Mountains; a place of ancient rock art, pristine landscapes and unfiltered natural beauty.
Here, the illusive Cape Mountain Leopard roams and you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve driven onto another planet. The closer you get to Bushmans Kloof, the further you feel from everywhere else in the most intriguingly exciting way.
Set within a 7500-hectare private reserve, Bushmans Kloof encompasses wide-open plains, caves, lakes and access to more than 130 ancient rock art sites, designated a Grade 1 South African National Heritage Site.
The Natural Wonders
Stepping through the gates of the reserve means venturing into a landscape home to three times the floral diversity of the Amazon Rainforest, where conservation and a commitment to preservation are at the heart of every activity offered.
Geologically, the environment dates back 500 million years, chiseled, weathered, and carved by the elements, ever-changing and currently, regenerating. In 2004, the Cape Floral Region (in which the Cederberg Mountains are located), was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Through continuous conservation of the fynbos vegetation and projects focused on the endangered Clanwilliam cedar (read about the General Managers 74km hike to help save the species here), the team are actively playing a role in ensuring this botanical wilderness flourishes into the future.
Getting back to the fluffy foal, the wildlife found throughout the reserve is a result of enormous efforts taken to reintroduce species that originally called the region home. Since 1991, the reserve has turned from 11 separate farms and cattle grazing land, back to its natural state, filled with endemic botanic species and fauna.
The Cape Mountain Zebra is one of the species currently thriving in the area brought back from the edge of extinction and the reserve is now graced with one of the largest herds in the world. On our evening game drive, a sudden flicker of white caught my eye in the lower vegetation, and I shouted (not like me at all) at our ranger Byron, ‘BABY ZEBRA’. His quick reaction saw us come to a speedy stop, giving plenty of room for the zebra foal, its mother and herd members to cross the track slowly in front of us. They were so calm and relaxed in our presence, that we were treated to over ten minutes of watching their interactions, floppy ears and newborn fluffiness.
The Experiences
Cycling with a chance of Zebra felt like a new kind of rush as we peddled from the lodge to the lake where kayaks were waiting for us to float to lunch. Switching pedals for paddles, in a few short strokes through the rocky canyon we beached the kayaks and found a picnic set-up that can only be described as outdoor opulence. Towels, umbrellas, ice drinks, lavish platters and champagne were on offer to nibble and recharge as our ranger Byron shared stories of the landscape and wildlife. Not many things make me willingly jump on a bicycle seat, but this experience, heck yes, any day.
When staying at Bushmans Kloof, the days are yours to fill with adventures, relaxation, reading, spa treatments or a good dose of binocular viewing time from the deck chairs. Opt for sunrise or sunset safaris or take a wander along the nature trails starting from behind the pond.
One thing you can expect, is to be surprised and a little (lot) spoilt.
On our final evening as we drove in the safari jeep toward our secret dinner location, movement appeared in the distance beside a stone cottage and gum tree, just as the sky turned a pastel hue.
It was the kind of scene painters whip out their easel for.
We’d arrived at Kadoro, translating as ‘a tinderbox of stories’, a restored shepherd’s hut and one of the unique dining experiences available to guests. To our astonishment, a young troupe of local dancers were kicking up dust in front of the hut performing Reildans, one of the oldest celebratory dance styles performed in South Africa by the San, Khoi, and Nama people.
Their energy, song and smiles were infectious and while watching, photographing and recording the moment, a waiter came around with gluhwein for us to sip as the twilight tones hit. A moment like this make you pinch yourself, a true travel experience that combines all pillars of what matters most. Community, culture, history, and nature. The inclusion of little luxuries doesn’t hurt either, and once the dancers rode off in a donkey-powered wagon (yes, if you’ve got this far you absolutely need to visit Bushmans Kloof), we stepped inside the hut where even more magic was waiting.
I’m not a food writer, I can barely cook for myself, but I know a good meal when it’s presented, especially when it’s photogenic. This experience, illuminated by hundreds of candles, prepared under the stars by Executive Chef Oliver Coetzee and served across numerous courses with paired wine, was up there with the best meals of my life. If you asked me what I ate that night I can’t quite tell you specifically, all I know was that I felt the food, the atmosphere and the love that went into not only preparing each dish, but the experience, crafted by the dedicated team at Bushmans Kloof. As noted earlier, they reach those stars twinkling above.
The Little Luxuries
The property’s design reflects a harmonious blend of luxury and sustainability, providing guests with an immersive experience in the heart of nature while maintaining a light environmental footprint.
My villa, Waters Edge II, was located by the pond, a serene space to relax with a book on the patio and watch the weavers busily craft their rather decadent nests. Each room is individually decorated with a mix of collectables, antiques or artwork, deep baths, luxury linens and well-stocked tea and coffee station. After having a peek at my fellow journalists’ rooms in the Manor House, and inside the River Side Supreme Suite on the banks of the Boontjies River, they’re all dream-worthy and ideally suited to both couples, families or a fabulous group celebration…maybe a group photo tour should be scheduled in for next year, anyone keen to join me?
Meals were a delight, beginning with brunch in the Makana pavilion after a morning adventure, lunch at The Homestead, and a cocktail creation before dinner. Take a peek at the images below that do a far better job of showcasing the food than I could with words!
The Photography Opportunities
Having been on the traditional safari tours that promise lions, elephants, and giraffes, I was taken aback by how many photographs I took during my time at Bushmans Kloof. The small details and rock patterns, the floral wonders, stunning light, and yes, about 500 photos included a fluffy Zebra foal.
There’s a relaxed approach to game drives here, no rush, no pressure and no lists to tick off, it’s about being present and ready for anything. This aided my creativity, allowing me to feel immersed in the landscape’s natural splendour and photograph with purpose, documenting the many species, both flora and fauna that we stumbled upon.
An experience that filled my memory card was a short hike to one of the San rock art sites on the reset. As noted earlier, there are more than 130 sites across the 7500 hectares, and our guide took us to one of his favourites, tucked beneath an overhand down a narrow canyon.
The walls were alive with colour and stories, where ancient artwork from Southern Africa’s oldest inhabitants, the San people (Bushmen) had been etched to reflect the culture, traditions and shamanic visions with a combination of sap, blood and ochre.
The rock art excursion is one of four themes offered to visitors keen on having an authentic bush experience. Add fynbos tours, native sandfish experiences and stargazing to your itinerary if you’ve managed to pack a few additional memory cards!
In terms of gear used while photographing at Bushmans Kloof, for the majority of the adventures, I had the OM-1 MKII with the 40-150mm f2.8 pro lens attached. Occasionally, while photographing around the lodge or the more open scenes, I switched over to the 12-40mm f2.8 lens for a wider angle.
Due to the lack of light pollution in the area, the stars are well and truly on display over the reserve. Be sure to pack your tripod and a wide-angle lens if you’re interested in astrophotography! As regular readers will know, I rarely travel with a tripod, so for this trip I opted to use the OM-1 MKII with the 7-14mm f2.8 lens and shot handheld by the pond and willow trees. When walking back from dinner, I couldn’t resist standing outside to capture the stars with a few quick shots, it was magnificent.
Now, as with all visual reviews, it’s time to let the photos do the rest of the talking.
*Please note, I was a guest of South African Tourism and Adventure World, this stay was part of a press trip itinerary, however all views, notes and experiences remain my own. Oh, and images, they’re all mine too 😊
For more information about Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat, visit their official website.
Hello! I’m the founder and photographer behind The Wandering Lens.
With 17+yrs experience as a professional travel and landscape photographer, all advice found on this site is from my personal experience on the road. I hope it’s useful for your own travels and would love to hear in the comments about your trips and experiences around the world.
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