Calanque dβEn Vau, France
Some places are worth all the uphill hiking in the world, and the Calanque dβEn Vau is one of them.
If you find yourself in the south of France and want to explore one of the most beautiful sites in the country, grab some joggers, camera and swimmers then head to Cassis.
A colourful fishing port just east of Marseille, Cassis is where you can begin exploring the Parc National des Calanques.
Okay so first up I know what youβre maybe thinkingβ¦what the heck is a calanque? Exactly my thoughts when I moved to France! A calanque is a steep walled inlet found along the Mediterranean coast and is known for white rocky cliffs descending to clear teal seas. The scenery is a dramatic palette of blues, greens and whites all blending together under the sunny skies of Provence.
Between Marseille and Cassis youβll find a 20km coastline home to a number of calanques that can only be explored by foot or by sea. The most beautiful of them all? Calanque dβEn Vau.
Hiking to Calanque dβEn Vau takes roughly two hours from Cassis Harbour, or alternatively I strongly suggest you begin at Port Miou. Thereβs a large outdoor car park here where you can pay 8euro and leave your car for the day while you explore the calanques. It means a whole lot less walking and you skip any unnecessary walking down streets, youβll kick things off right from the waterfront and cut about an hour from the hike.
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Here’s a map that shows the hiking trail – please note this map shows the route to the beach at Calanque d’En Vau, if you’re hoping to capture the views from above, stick to the coastal path from Calaque de Port Pin…I’ve explained more in detail below.
Port Miou to Calanque de Port Pin
From Port Miou the path leads alongside the long and skinny harbour filled with sailing and speed boats. Once you hit the slight incline at the end of a long flat section, thatβs where the hiking really begins.
The hiking trail uses a colour coded system (as seen in the image above) and youβll see painted stripes on rocks that let you know youβre heading in the right direction.
From Port Miou follow the white and red stripes.
If itβs a warm day youβll start second guessing your decision to do the hike once youβve made it to the top of the first hillβ¦or at least I did! The path starts to get a little hazardy with slippery stones and an uneven track but if youβre not prone to tripping over, itβs totally fine.
About 20-30minutes into the hike youβll arrive to the clear waters of Calanque de Port Pin, a welcome little cove thatβs a good place to take a break. Popular during the summer months, here youβll find people picnicking, sunbathing and swimming, more than likely perched from the beach all the way along the rocky shores.
Calanque de Port Pin to Calanque dβEn Vau
Once youβve caught your breath thereβs two options to get to Calanque dβEn Vau. You can continue on the white and red path which is a more direct route straight up through the bushland, or you can follow the blue route. More scenic yet a little longer, the blue track hugs the coastline making it much more motivating once you start heading uphill. My suggestion is to head straight up on the white and red track then wander back slowly along the coast on the blue path!
If you do take the direct route, once you arrive at the top youβll probably find itβs a little confusing. It feels like you should be looking down over the calanque however youβre looking out to a horizon of more rocks and trees as far as you can see. Again, here itβs more or less a fork in the track and youβll have two options.
Head left for the magnificent views looking down over the Calanque dβEn Vau, or walk right and make your way down into the calanque if youβre keen to go for a swim and explore from the sea.
Itβs roughly 30-45mins to get down into the calanque and obviously a lot longer to climb back upβ¦by the way Iβm purely judging these hiking times on my personal speed which is a best regular. Iβm no speed walker thatβs been proven again and again!
Where to get the Beautiful View of Calanque dβEn Vau?
Head for the sea and youβll start to witness the glimmering water beneath you. If youβve taken the inland route from Calanque de Port Pin, turn left at the top and wander along the cliff edge until the beauty reveals itself.
Thereβs a number of natural rocky platforms to sit on and gaze down into the calanque below. Itβs a great place to take a break and have a picnic, we ended up finding a big flat rock that leant out from the cliff edge which provided the most incredible view for lunch!
Hiking Time: Allow up to three hours to do the return hike and a little bit more if you want to soak up the sea and jump in the colourful waters for a dip.
Depending on your level of fitness and the temperature on the day you hike, itβs definitely possible to do the hike faster. If though you plan on photographing the calanque give yourself plenty of time because itβs seriously photogenic and itβs a little hard to walk away from.
Best time for Photographs:
Itβs important to start your hike early because once the afternoon begins shadows start to creep over the calanque. I recommend starting out around 10am from Port Miou which will mean you arrive to Calanque dβEn Vau at around 11am, giving you plenty of time to capture all the colours with a strong overhead sunlight.
From above the sea will start to sparkle in the afternoon light so be sure to take a polariser if youβre hoping to minimise any unwanted glare.
The images in this post were taken using a lightweight (great for hiking!) Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II camera paired with my M.Zuiko 12-40mm PRO 2.8 lens and I didn’t opt to use a polariser.
Best time of year to visit:
The Parc National des Calanques are best explored between October and June. If youβre hoping to swim definitely plan your trip for either early October or May and June when the sea will be warm enough for a dip.
Over the summer months of July to September, the hiking tracks to the calanques may be closed due to the risk of fire depending on the conditions and heat. If youβre planning on visiting any of the other calanques accessible by road, you may also find there are restrictions in place limiting how many cars are allowed, or that the roads are closed to all traffic.
If you happen to be visiting during summer there are of course alternatives, it means less walking and a different perspective! You can take a boat from Cassis or Marseille and arrive to the calanques by sea. While itβs not possible to get off the boats, youβll still see the impressive and steep cliffs rising from the sea.
To find out more about visiting the calanques by boat you can visit the Marseille Tourism website here.
Related Travel Guides:
14 Photogenic Experiences to have in Provence
A Photographer’s Guide to Paris
eBook: The Lavender Fields and Beautiful Villages of Provence
Hereβs a collection of photos from our hike last weekend. As I mentioned above, we started the hike at 10am and I was capturing these images from roughly 11am-2pm because I couldnβt tear myself away from the viewsβ¦.must. keep. clicking.
If you’d like to share this port or save for later, here’s a pin for Pinterest β
Hello! I’m the founder and photographer behind The Wandering Lens.
With 17+yrs experience as a professional travel and landscape photographer, all advice found on this site is from my personal experience on the road. I hope it’s useful for your own travels and would love to hear in the comments about your trips and experiences around the world.
Blog Comments
Audrey
May 21, 2017 at 12:56 pm
Omg my heart skipped a beat, the color of the water is just beyond words. Love the different shades of blue π thanks for including the maps, such a useful article for when I’m in the area! Also impressed by your photography skills!
thewanderinglens
June 12, 2017 at 7:14 am
Thanks so much Audrey! The colour is so striking and such a welcome relief once you arrive to the top of the calanque and see what’s waiting for you π
Flo
May 21, 2017 at 3:31 pm
Oh my goodness, what a stunning part of the world! It would definitely take me longer than 3 hours, I’ve been known to stop and take wayyyyy too many photos haha!
thewanderinglens
June 12, 2017 at 7:15 am
Haha taking photos along the way is my go to excuse for catching my breath π
Sara
May 21, 2017 at 5:55 pm
Wow I never knew there was such beautiful hikes in France. This is a definite game changer. It looks incredible there!
cindi sharma
January 29, 2018 at 11:19 pm
This is spectacular! thanks for your photos and information. We are coming in July and would like to see some trails. Is this possible? What do you recommend? We would like to swim in the cove if possible. after seeing the national park we would like to go to a beach; what do you recommend? Is bus the easiest transit?
Thanks again!
Cindi
Lisa Michele Burns
February 16, 2018 at 6:52 pm
Hi Cindi, great to hear you’re visiting in July! It’ll be beautiful and warm, perfect for swimming in the chilly calanques.
The tracks are closed when the weather has a potential fire risk so in July due to the warmth there’s the possibility they may be closed.
That said, you can definitely kayak from Cassis to the calanques and then swim once you arrive…it’s absolutely beautiful in there!
There’s a beach at the end of Calanque d’en Vau otherwise the public beach at Cassis is great too, when you hire kayaks they depart from the main beach right near the Tourist Information Centre and port so it’s super central.
Have a great trip!
Lisa
Fatin Najwa
July 23, 2018 at 12:38 pm
Based on your journey, would you recommend to bring a 21-month old baby (using a baby carrier) to this place?
Lisa Michele Burns
July 23, 2018 at 2:48 pm
With a baby carrier yes however the rocks can be difficult to walk over so it could be a bit tricky at times, I’m not sure I could carry a 21mth old on my own to the top. Also just be mindful that at the top of the hike the drop off when looking over the calanque is very steep so I’d personally keep bub in the carrier for most of the time. Down at the beach and also at the Calanque de Port Pin it’ll be easier for your baby to crawl around safely.
Kim
September 15, 2018 at 12:58 pm
gorgeous photos!!! I’m planning a very spontaneous trip to France, in mid October, to meet my 19 yr old son, and have come across your site, and have to say I love it. Being an Aussie from the northern beaches of Sydney, I’m drawn to the coast and can’t believe how stunning this area is. I was planning on spending 4/5 nights in Cassis as our base, and was wondering what your opinion was in doing day trips up to the Luberon villages from there? We could split our time 3 in Cassis and 2 in one of the villages? wish we had more time… I’d truly appreciate your opinion, given you’ve lived in this area.
Regrds, Kim
Lisa Michele Burns
September 15, 2018 at 2:21 pm
Thanks Kim! Very exciting to hear you’re heading over to Provence soon. You’ll love the coastline of Cassis, I’m from Port Macquarie just north of Sydney and the Calanques of Cassis just blew me away…the water is so clear too! Using Cassis as your base to explore the Luberon villages however could be a little far. It’s roughly 1hr driving time to get to Aix en Provence, then from Aix it’s an additional 30min-1.5hrs depending on which villages you’re going to. It’s definitely possible but you’d get sick of driving I think and the route from Aix to Cassis is via a highway. If visiting the villages is your focus, I’d do 3 nights in the Luberon or even Aix en Provence, and 2 nights in Cassis instead. Otherwise, if the coast is your thing, stick to Cassis and venture around to La Ciotat and perhaps down to Frejus and the coast road to Cannes, it’s stunning! I’ve got an eBOOK about the villages of Provence which might help in your planning, you can find it here – https://www.thewanderinglens.com/product/provence-lavender-fields-guide/
Have a wonderful trip!
waykiwayki
June 11, 2019 at 2:55 am
Thx—doing this tomorrow….this helped π x
Emma
January 18, 2020 at 9:24 am
What an excellent review and beautiful photos, thanks Lisa! My husband and I will visit at the end of June, I can’t wait! Can you tell me what time of year these photos were taken?I want to prepare myself if it’ll be really busy so I don’t have unrealistic expectations π
Lisa Michele Burns
January 20, 2020 at 4:07 am
Hi Emma, how exciting you’re heading to Cassis, it’s my favourite coastal town in the region! If you avoid weekends, it won’t be too busy along the hike. Even if it is, there’s plenty of space to find your own little corner to enjoy the views π
Frank Hatton
June 18, 2023 at 11:53 pm
There are similarities between Calanque d’En Vau in Cassis and the Seymour Narrows Canada but I suspect the kayaking is better in Calanque d’En Vau in Cassis, France.
Lynn Fogarty
May 28, 2024 at 10:35 am
Hello! Thank you so much for this info. We are coming in early July. We will be driving on a day trip from Nice. I know it will make for a long day but we really want to see the calanques. Because of the risk that trails will be closed for fire risk, we are planning to go by water from Cassis. We are trying to decide between renting kayaks and or taking a boat tour. Kayak is more appealing because of the option to land on beach and swim, explore. Hopefully it wonβt be too strenuous for us – we are 54 but reasonably fit. Our 4 teen kids will have no no problem. The kayak tours seem to leave either at 8 or 1 and Iβm wondering whether the sunlight wonβt be ideal by the afternoon session but with a drive from Nice we wonβt make the 8 am kayak tour. Any advice or thoughts are appreciated.
Lisa Michele Burns
June 16, 2024 at 10:25 pm
Hi Lynn, apologies for only just getting back to your comment here! That’s so exciting you’ll be visiting in early July, it’s a stunning region and I hope you’ll have a wonderful trip. Instead of the kayak tours with set times, you could actually hire them and paddle yourselves there without a guide. They’ll show you on the map, but essentially you just stick to the coast (closely to avoid boats), and can paddle all the way to Calanque d’En Vau and back. It’s a long paddle, but not too bad if you’re reasonably fit. I think you’ll find the self-guided tour options here – https://www.lokayakcassis.com/en/autonomous-trip – enjoy it!